The incredible range of Gundam subjects would seem at first glance to defy any attempt at systematic judging. Yet even a model that represents a builder's total flight of fancy can still be judged on the basis of basic scale modeling skills.

 

Basic Construction

1.       Flash, mold seams, sink marks, copyright marks, ejector-pin marks, and similar molding flaws eliminated.

2.       Seams filled if not present on the actual prototype. If depicting a subject with visible seams, such detail should be

uniform and to scale throughout the model.

3.       Detailing removed while correcting errors, filling seams, etc. restored to a level consistent with the rest of the model.

4.       Alignment:

•          Wings, fins, pods, etc., have same dihedral or anhedral on both sides and, when viewed from various angles, line up properly with the vehicle centerline.

•          Landing/running gear components properly aligned with vehicle and with each other in front, side, and plan views.

•          Ordnance items (laser cannon, missile tubes, etc.) aligned correctly with vehicle and with each other.

5.       Canopies, Lights, Eyes and other clear areas:

•          Clear and free of crazing caused by adhesives or finishing coats.

•          Gaps between windscreen, canopy, or other clear parts eliminated where applicable.

•          All clear areas scratch-, blemish-, and paint-free.

 

Details

1.       Overly thick parts should be thinned to scale or replaced. This is especially true of the antennas supplied with

many kits. Kit versions often appear too "fat" and lack detail.

2.       Scoops and other such openings should be blocked off to prevent a "see-through" effect.

3.       Weapon barrels, exhausts, intakes, vents, small thrusters, steering rockets, etc. should be drilled or opened.

4.       Details added to the model should be in scale or as close to scale as possible.

5.       Aftermarket parts (photo-etched, white metal, resin, etc.) should integrate well with the basic model. Photo-etched

parts that require forming should be precisely shaped, and any surfaces that require building up to a thicker cross-section should be smooth and uniform.

6.       Science fiction and fantasy modeling can entail a fair amount of scratch-building or kit-bashing. Items or areas

added in this fashion should look useful and truly part of the vehicle, and should be similar in fit, detail, and overall finish to the rest of the model. Parts used from other kits should be sufficiently altered or disguised so that their origin is not immediately apparent in order to avoid the appearance of a haphazard assemblage of spare parts.

 

 

 

Painting and Finishing

1.       The model's surface, if painted or unpainted, should show no signs of the construction process (glue, file, or

sanding marks; fingerprints; obvious discontinuities between kit plastic and filler materials; etc.).

2.       Finish should be even and smooth. If irregularities in the actual vehicle's finish are being duplicated, documentation

of such irregularities is required.

•          No brush marks, lint, brush hairs, etc.

•          No "orange-peel" or "eggshell" effect; no "powdering" in areas such as cavities or inside corners.

•          No random differences in sheen of finish caused by misapplication of final clear coats.

3.       Paint edges that are supposed to be sharp should be sharp (no ragged edges caused by poor masking). Edges

that are supposed to be soft or feathered should be in scale and without overspray.

4.       Framing on clear parts should have crisp, uniform edges.

5.       Weathering, if present, should be consistent throughout the model, not overdone, and appropriate for the vehicle

and the conditions in which it was (or would be) operating. Reentry vehicles should show some aerodynamic weathering if depicted in a post-reentry or landing mode. Rocket engine nozzles generally should show some sort of weathering, particularly on the inside; but check references, as such weathering can vary greatly from one type of nozzle to another.

6.       Decals:

•          Aligned properly. (If the actual prototype had a markings anomaly, e.g., an inverted insignia, the model builder should provide documentation to show that he is deliberately duplicating someone else's error, not inadvertently making one of his own.)

•          No silvering or bubbling of decal film. Decal film should be eliminated or hidden to make the markings appear painted on.

•          Uniform finish (a consideration if using decal bits from a variety of sources).

7.       Colors. Paint colors, even from the same manufacturer and mixed to the same specs, can vary from batch to batch.

Different operating environments can change colors in different ways. All paints fade from the effects of weather, sunlight, supernova explosions, etc., and viewing distance alone can change the look of virtually any color. Poor initial application and subsequent maintenance compound these problems. Therefore, color shades should not be used to determine the accuracy of a model that represents an actual spacecraft or a specific TV or movie science fiction vehicle. Of course, for science fiction models that are solely the product of the builder's imagination, the rule on colors is "anything goes."